Archives de l’auteur : clamy

Roundtable : In what way, and how will brand villages fulfil the expectations of brands, consumers and investors five years from now?

{{Workshop led by}}
{{Olivier Dauvers}}
{Tribune Grande Conso}


{{Speakers}}
{{Henrik C.Maris}}
{Factory Outlet Consultancy}
{{Eric Decouvelare}}
Retail Group Director
{McArthurGlen}
{{Iestyn Roberts}}
Chief Executive
{Freeport}
{{Alexandre Séjourné}}
Property Director
{Concepts & Distribution
(Marques Avenue)}
{{Franck Verschelle}}
Managing Director Asset Management
{Pantheon}




{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ We are going to look into the future to think about what could be happening in 5 years’ time and highlight the strengths and weaknesses of the brand village concept. Imagining the future, considering the competition (e.g.: the Web), the changing behaviour of brands relative to the business, the development of the concept, the possibility or otherwise of maintaining the forward momentum of the project, and finally, the possibility of extending the concept into other areas than fashion and textiles.



{{Henrik C. MARIS}}
_ There will be more outlet centers in the future years all around Europe, even in areas like Northern Italy. There exists a very high demand for existing centres nowadays. The problem for the business is that there are not enough building permissions. Even the very big players are not being good enough in some regions in the lobbying in order to get business permissions. It should be done more be in that field. The major problem for factory outlet is the lack of brands. There are many brands that only do one or two standard loans or no outlet business at all. Most of them are interested, but they see the whole operation going into outlet business. They are not thinking about holding the operation until it is running well. In the next two-three years the winner will be the chain that will bring the brands over the Alps or over the Pyrenees. Brands from the South have to be brought from the North or vice versa. Other center players have to do the same effort to bring something new, combining these new things with the classical ones. That can refer to players in France, too.



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ What dangers are there for brand villages if they are not careful?



{{Henrik C. MARIS}}
_ The danger for a brand is going in its “back yard”. This is a frequent problem in Germany and Italy. Excess stock is not a problem, on the contrary, it is a good thing. It represents a question of taking the brand out in the street where it can be seen and also find places in Europe where its presence would be useful. The brand on the street will create a demand for full price business.



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ Do you share view of those who are moving increasingly towards commercial tourism?






{{Henrik C. MARIS}}
_ In tourism, there have to be done serious outlet centre business based on the classic 60 minutes circle. In order to do really good business one should look around, as outlet centre shopping is very much a border shopping thing. Many centres that are on border are attracting customers from other countries.



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ Franck Verschelle, does commercial tourism make it possible to extend the circle of consumers by drawing them in from further afield and pulling in a moving flow of customers?



{{Franck VERSCHELLE}}
_ I agree with what Henrik said, we are talking of the same thing, relocation and flows. In terms of the flows, drawing on commercial tourism not only gives a varied customer base throughout the year, depending on the seasons, but also alleviates the potential negative impact on existing proximity zones.



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ It is also a way of getting better accommodation, isn’t it?



{{Franck VERSCHELLE}}
_ Yes. Nevertheless, it is not a property scheme but a reality, and so there is a need for a competent operator to set it up. The development of a region with outside customers will have a very positive impact.



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ Following the summary of the fundamentals of the concept, on which side of the balance are you, pure and simple commerce or commercial tourism? Although there is no real opposition, looking at your centres and your projects, we can however identify differences in directions.



{{Eric DECOUVELAERE}}
_ Whatever we say, the fundamentals are a reality, the brands, prices, etc. If on top there is also tourism, when the centres are carefully geographically located, it is clear that we will take action. Our approach is to offer the client an experience that matches with their investment whether in terms of one-off customers (tourists) or those of the trading area.
Are prices on their own enough of an attraction?



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ Alexandre Séjourné, looking 5 years ahead, do you think we need to improve the proposal of the centres with an attraction other than the price of the brand?



{{Alexandre SEJOURNE}}
_ I have been carefully following the ideas that have emerged over these two days, and in particular the parallel drawn by Philippe Vilmus between warfare and economics. At the moment we have many projects in Europe based around the brand village model. This highlights the need for brands, prices, effective architecture (to give form to the emotion)… Taking the parallel drawn by Philippe Vilmus, operators are fighting in the same location, with the same weapons. On one hand, we are going to try and protect our fundamentals, but on the other we will rework the criteria for success for ourselves. The architecture will be original, but not necessarily a pastiche of the region. This will nevertheless match with the requirements of the customers and of the shopping centre. More than simply the feeling of wearing a known brand, I believe that consumers have a real sense of having bought a Ralph Lauren shirt for 70% less. They will boast more about the unbelievable saving made than about the fact of wearing this brand.
Fifteen years ago we were working on brands and prices. Today Internet sites such as venteprivée.com offer these benefits. We are not just managers of buildings, we must be present in the shops and not allow the brands to slacken off. They must continue to be dynamic. We must be around to remind them that their image is at issue and that they must satisfy their customers. Like us, they need this.






{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ What will your centres look like in 5 years applying the vision you have of them?



{{Iestyn ROBERTS}}
_ I don’t think consumers need a change in that fundamental. The modern consumer is becoming a very differentiating person. The reason people come to us is the pleasure of finding something they haven’t expected to find at an unexpected price. We will make environment even more attractive than it is now. Countries across Europe are very different and it has to be worked a lot with the local cultures. Our centres will not be enormously different. What brings people to us are the right brands, the right prices, and the right environment.



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ Have you ever considered replicating the model you have perfected (brands/prices) from the offline to the online?



{{Eric DECOUVELAERE}}
_ Here again, we are going to stay in our core business. Obviously the “click” has been a reality for a number of years. We have been tempted but the fact that we are not logistics experts holds us back. More specifically, we have thought about it in a different way. For example, there are operators who are interested in the market and the question is to identify what we can bring to it together. From our perspective, we bring our relationships with our brands (approximately 700) and an understanding of the market. As for these operators, they have the files and a mastery of a business requiring a specific expertise. I am surprised that we, operators of brand villages, are not closer to these private sales sites.



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ You therefore share my incomprehension concerning this absence of synergy between our two businesses.



{{Eric DECOUVELAERE}}
_ Precisely, we are working on it, and I hope that this will lead to something over the coming months.



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ Alexandre Séjourné, do you believe there is a synergy between the off-line and the on-line?



{{Alexandre SEJOURNE}}
_ We asked ourselves this same question some two years ago, we were not at all worried. Today, the turnover of Ventes-Privee is around €300 M on its own.
To start with we wanted to know how it all worked. We questioned our brands. They explained that they could destock 15,000 items in 3 days. However, this online sale involved a complete loss of control over the image with regard to the consumer, and insignificant margins. But above all, remaining in our online shop for destocking would prevent us from opening our permanent brand at full price. It is thus extremely complicated. The ventes-privées site apparently takes 30% of margins and there are 70 other destocking sites.



{{Eric DECOUVELAERE}}
_ As for us we are reviewing the models. We could undoubtedly manage to identify some complementarities, but at the moment, these are mainly directed towards discounters. The factory outlet retains legitimacy for the brand as it controls its image and its communication.



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ Do you think that you might be interested in this communication channel one day?



{{Franck VERSCHELLE}}
_ No, because there are a great many things already to do in the future for our business. In addition, we must not confuse the evolution of a business and a distribution channel. This would be like asking a supermarket to build small shops. It is a different business, with different analyses, etc



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ Nevertheless, in the supermarket sector the big chains were also specialists and have now all become multi-size. The idea was precisely to target the same consumer, but to attract them in different ways.



{{Franck VERSCHELLE}}
_ Multi-size perhaps, but not inevitably multi-channel. The co-existence of these multi-channels in the major chains has always been complicated. It is about know-how, investment, and a number of issues… At the moment it is the advertisers who are happy thanks to the advertising investment from all these new sites. I believe in this development but it is not our business and Pantheon will not make it a priority. The online will not replace factory outlets and brand villages.



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ The idea is really to know whether there is any strategic relevance to be had in combining the two channels. And Iestyn Roberts, would you be interested in e-commerce?






{{Iestyn ROBERTS}}
_ The Internet is a great place to promote our businesses and to communicate with our partners, but a commercial media doesn’t do this for a living. Our environment offers to our partners the opportunity to manage their brands and it is a very special environment in order to sell our products.



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ If one of you did go down that path, would you maintain your relations with the brands?



{{Alexandre SEJOURNE}}
_ I think that as soon as the brands understand that they can do this on their own, they will start doing it.



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ It is hard to forget what the value of a customer file, the history of a business relationship…



{{Alexandre SEJOURNE}}
_ When a customer is registered on the site, access to the product is still not certain, which could put them off. In France, factory outlets and online sites are complementary in the sense that we can say to the Internet user that if they miss a sale, there is a second chance in a factory outlet.



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ Henrik Maris, are there objective complementarities that exist between brand shops and destocking sites?



{{Henrik C. MARIS}}
_ We are talking about leisure business. Different customers exist. Sometimes, they don’t know exactly what they are going to buy. Outlet suggests excess stock and excess shopping.



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ There is a lot of talk of the Internet, proof that ways of thinking of yesteryear have become much faster.



{{Eric DECOUVELAERE}}
_ We have seen that online sites work very well in those countries that have a good hotline culture. Ventes-privées works very well in France because there is a real understanding of the factory outlet and brand village in France. However, in Italy, there are a large number of projects but the country still lacks major operators, unlike Great Britain.
The development of brand villages.



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ At the moment, opening the last dossier on “development”. The scale of announced projects (1.5 million m²) is astonishing. But can this rate be maintained? It is in fact rather unusual to see such a level of expansion in sales areas.



{{Franck VERSCHELLE}}
_ McArthurGlen came to Europe to work with Nike and Polo for their destocking. Today, we are facing the same demand, brands are asking that we work with them in Eastern countries. We now need to be Europeans, or even beyond this.



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ Is this an objective reason for believing that you can open new m²?



{{Franck VERSCHELLE}}
_ Of course, because a distribution circuit is becoming reality and the demand exists. For us, we already have our own circuit. The brands are advancing, and we are behind them. Their confidence arises from having worked together over many years. They need solutions for the more risky markets.



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ Do you think that the volume of unsold goods will follow or even exceed the amount of m² in the next 5 years?



{{Franck VERSCHELLE}}
_ Fifteen years ago there were as many brands and as many, or almost, customers. We were facing problems of overstock. Today, we have 2½ million m² for selling them off. Overstock will of course never disappear. The day on which the overstocks and m² curves crossover will pose a serious philosophical problem for our projects. In terms of simple expansion no operators will emerge one morning to announce that they plan to expand in the United Kingdom. There are thus countries reaching saturation, others in which there is still room, more or less developed countries. In France, 23 centres have opened in the space of 7 years. There are only 2 today. The erosion is ok, but the chains need to know how to select relative to a market logic, relative to a destocking logic and a geographic logic. There are markets reaching their saturation points and others opening up, we thus need to think about the future crossover of the overstocks and m² curves.



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ Do you think there is a risk that these curves are going to cross?



{{Eric DECOUVELAERE}}
_ We must be the first wherever we go. In addition, we all here have products that have a shelf life. If we are promoters, developers, we also have a responsibility for revitalizing the products. When we walk through a department store and we see brands we have and those we do not, we can see that there is still work to be done. If we still have work to do in educating the customer, we also have it to do with the brands. Many of these are still not present in the brand villages, it is our vocation to go to them and work with them.



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ Are we running the risk of having too many brand villages? A market consisting of too many operators and too many assets will end up reducing the value for everyone. The next shareholders could therefore be reluctant to see any integration?



{{Iestyn ROBERTS}}
_ Looking at the whole market with the kinds of brands that we want to work with, there are some conflict pressures. On one side, there are supply chains that are becoming more efficient. With the Internet it is possible to sell the products profitably. It is a growing world environment and not just within Europe, but also in the Eastern Europe and in the Far East, where there are very fast growth economies. Big brands need big supply chains and they create surplus products. The opportunity is to find the right location, an area that is not yet penetrated by another outlet. The consumer demand is a natural human impulse. There will be further opportunities in the euro zone and even bigger opportunities outside it.



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ Is the demand of investors always this persistent, or even more so? In effect, in this commercial town planning, one can wonder if there is not more money than there is need.



{{Iestyn ROBERTS}}
_ If there is more money available that means that there is a demand. Factory Outlet is different from conventional retail. A well run out outlet centre has a consistent growth, makes good money for the owners and there is no shortage of people who want to buy.



{{From the floor}} {({{Olivier COUTIN}} – Unibail Rodamco)}
_ As I see it there is more money in the market than available products. This means that money that cannot be invested in traditional retail centres is first shifted into other forms of commerce and is now being directed into factory outlet and brand village centres.



{{Franck VERSCHELLE}}
_ Yes, there are a lot of investors. But these investors now have significant roles in the decision making process and in the management of the centres. Some of them are even specialists in our business. They are not stumbling in blind. As they gradually come to understand our business and develop structures for it, they are becoming increasingly more demanding.



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ There is no incongruity between what you both have to say. There is a surfeit of capital for investment, unlike in traditional commercial property. There is thus a movement of carry over.



{{Iestyn ROBERTS}}
_ Outlet centres are very small markets in comparison to the total retail investment, which is a huge sector. People who invest in it recognise it as a very different kind of business.



{{Alexandre SEJOURNE}}
_ Previously we had to be extremely ingenious to attract investors, now it is they who come to us. But it is nevertheless important that investors understand our business. For example in Belgium, there was an operation that failed because an investor was abandoned by the promoter, despite the good location of the site and the presence of brands. In guaranteeing the proper operation of the project, the promoter must take responsibility for its management.



{{From the floor }{({{Jean-Pierre NOBLE}} – Ixis AEW Europe)}
_ There are plenty of full price shopping centres that are already reaching maturity. No one was interested in brand villages 10 years ago, the context has changed because of good management. But brands need their own traditional distribution circuits. Brand villages are an investment link offering continuity from the full price shopping centres, these latter are reaching saturation in many European markets.



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ What other choices could there be than fashion and textiles? Is it possible to consider expanding the range of our businesses? Do any of you have any relevant experiences?



{{Alexandre SEJOURNE}}
_ There are still plenty of brands to bring in, especially in the fields of textiles and home products. The home is a sector for the future. It is a magnificent product, a vector for emotion. Consumers are keen for it given their experiences of buying in this segment.



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ Could Seb, often mentioned, be an opening for you?



{{Alexandre SEJOURNE}}
_ We will clearly see other openings. Maybe one day we could be selling cars if other buyers cannot be found for them? However, it is clear that some obsolete products (e.g.: high tech) cannot be marketed using this system. Bizarrely we have been called on to market Lindt chocolates, destocking after the Christmas period. This was a good opportunity to capitalise on emotion. Whenever there has been a malfunction, we must make the most of it.



{{Eric DECOUVELAERE}}
_ We are already working on the home. But I want to go back to two product categories. First of all, we are coming up against rapid obsolescence in “technological products”. Although the volumes here are not comparable to those of the textile segment, we have achieved good results. For instance, with Toshiba, we can find customers for products between 6 month and 1 year old. These are phenomenal densities, but it is a model that we cannot replicate in all the centres because of insufficient goods. This operation has nevertheless caught the attention of other brands.
The second category is that of “perfumes and cosmetics”. Whilst remaining firmly within the DNA of our brands, we are trying to develop these in the best way. Full price perfumery operators would like to come into our centres, but we are resisting this.



{{Franck VERSCHELLE}}
_ We have a car dealer alongside us in Newcastle, but this is not the future. I remain somewhat sceptical in this matter. Despite the respect I have for these brands, they never draw as do Hugo Boss or the other brands that are in essence at the core of our business.



{{Iestyn ROBERTS}}
_ Our business remains axed on fashion, even though sectors like cosmetics are easy to get. We have big furniture and electronic stores, but they have to adapt to the centre outlet prepositions. It is just an enhancement to our core product and not a replacement of it.



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ What is the reduction for the cosmetics that you said sold in Portugal?



{{Iestyn ROBERTS}}
_ The discount is normally of 30%



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ Is it appropriate to take an interest in markets other than fashion and textiles? Do these represent a real lever or will it remain the exception?



{{Henrik C. MARIS}}
_ The core business will be fashion and textiles, as the key word to it is “margin”. Traditionally, there were 10 textile shops doing the same thing. Nowadays, there are normally 9 textile shops and a flower or a perfume shop. It is good to soften up the centre, which represents in fact a whole atmosphere.



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ To summarise, if we have value chains with sufficiently high margin coefficients on the full price, there is enough to live on even after dividing by 2.



{{Eric DECOUVELAERE}}
_ To complete the picture, we also have a discount travel agency. The holidays are reduced and we sell them through the agency.



{{Olivier DAUVERS}}
_ In this instance, it is an Internet model that has been transposed into the real world!



{{Alexandre SEJOURNE}}
_ We are all in agreement that 80% of our business still comes from textiles, with overstocks readily available. However, other product ranges will add emotion, differentiation, and we will therefore have this extra element of appeal to bring in the customers.


Une bonne année 2008 pour les centres de marques français

L’Observatoire Magdus a lancé une enquête auprès des directions de centres de magasins d’usine et de
marques en France afin de recueillir leur bilan de l’année 2008. Cette synthèse met en lumière les
grandes tendances de l’activité des centres en 2008 par rapport au bilan de l’année 2007. Dans un
contexte conjoncturel défavorable, notamment durant le second semestre 2008, il semble que la majorité
des centres de magasins d’usine et de marques ait tiré son épingle du jeu durant l’année 2008.

{{Lire l’intégralité de l’étude :}}

1. Les lauréats 2005



{{{« Meilleure traduction du concept »}}}

-* {{McArthurGlen Castel Romano
_ Rome – Italie
_ McArthurGlen}}

























—-





{{{« Meilleure dynamique de marque »}}}

-* {{Nike}}



—-




{{{« Meilleure action de promotion »}}}

-* {{Opération Fun Shopping Bus
_ (Marques Avenue, France)}}

Workshop 1 – Consumer developments in Europe – how to adapt and anticipate

{{Workshop facilitator}}
{{Laurent Locurcio }}
{Agence Info}


{{Speakers}}
{{Pascal Roussarie}}
Director of the Cetelem Observatory
{{Valérie Voisembert}}
European Leasing Executive
{Freeport}




{{Pascal ROUSSARIE}}
_ The hallmark of the European consumer is a strong desire to consume. If he or she considers that his/her purchase presents no added value, then he or she will easily resort to hard discount. If the purchase has an added value, he or she will spend more time selecting the product and thus the method of distribution. Distribution methods and consumer expectations are identical in all European capitals. There are greater differences in distribution methods between Paris and the Périgord than between Paris and Prague. It is of particular note that on-line purchasing is undergoing sharp growth, especially when a product brand is identified.



{{Valérie VOISEMBERT}}
_ New European members have still not understood the concept of the factory outlet. The discount race is not a general phenomenon in Europe (a Czech prefers to buy a product from the West than a cheap product), but it is particularly pronounced in France. From this point of view, the factory outlet corresponds to consumer expectations. In 2006, promotions and sales accounted for 30% of overall sales in France.



{{Laurent LOCURCIO}}
_ Will new consumers emerge in Europe?



{{Pascal ROUSSARIE}}
_ In all European countries, except for Russia, the over-sixties’ market share is increasing. Distributors will have to create spaces to attract a clientele that is older, more exacting and more aware.



{{Valérie VOISEMBERT}}
_ In Lisbon, we have developed a Freeport centre, where people spend more time because of the leisure facilities offered there. We are also expanding our services (Internet, bilingual sales staff in centres on national borders, etc.) and we are careful about the quality of architecture in our brand shopping centres. Offering low prices reassures the consumer. Some of the companies who rent space from us help to ensure customer loyalty by issuing customer loyalty cards.



{{Laurent LOCURCIO}}
_ What do you think about the new consumers in Central Europe?



{{Pascal ROUSSARIE}}
_ In two years, consumers in Eastern Europe will have the same purchasing power as those in Western Europe. By 2010, Hungarians will even earn more than the Portuguese. In these countries, the notion of consumerism clearly predominates over the idea of saving. So this presents a growth opportunity for brand names. Paradoxically, consumers are more demanding in Central Europe, where the most attractive shopping centres and the latest distribution concepts are to be found.



{{Valérie VOISEMBERT}}
_ In Eastern Europe, consumers are more attached to brands, which play a social function, than to quality. International brands are especially appreciated.



{{Pascal ROUSSARIE}}
_ With all the discounts that exist, consumers are no longer prepared to pay the street price for a product. Let us not forget to make the consumer aware of a fair price and not merely the lowest price, particularly in certain areas such as the furniture or the automotive sectors.



{{ {Discussion with the floor} }}

{{Patrick DEJEAN}}
_ How do you define a product’s « added value »?



{{Pascal ROUSSARIE}}
_ The consumer wants to arbitrate with respect to his purchasing. For example, food-shopping is considered to be « chore », that can be carried out in a hard-discount store. However, the consumer is prepared to spend time and money on an organic product or a good wine. Castorama allows the consumer to choose between its discount Brico stores, on the one hand, where there are no sales staff and the prices are very low, and its Castorama stores which are full of high-quality products.
A sales advisor must provide added-value in terms of the information provided face-to-face, as opposed to information that can be obtained on the Internet – advice, reassurance, loyalty (a satisfied customer is the best ambassador for the product and the distribution concept). In order to compete with the Internet, sales staff must establish a relation with the customer and exploit the ‘dream factor’ that stimulates people to buy clothing and, particularly, branded clothing.



{{Jean-Pierre LEHMANN}} (President of the National Town-centre Federation)
_ The Freeport brand centres commit to selling at prices that are 30 % lower, but lower in relation to what price?



{{Valérie VOISEMBERT}}
_ The reference price is the previous year’s consumer price in the case of products from the previous year, or the previous season in the case of the previous season’s products. Factory shops offer « excess-stock » articles, that is, unsold articles from the current or previous seasons. In fact, some brands knowingly produce more for these specific distribution channels. In our centres, we have a dual labelling system, to inform the customer of the two prices.



{{Frédéric WILLEMS}} (National Clothing Federation Legal Expert)
_ There is unfair competition between factory outlet centres and traditional shops. French legislation requires that, for shops, the reference price indicated in dual labelling systems is the lowest price proposed by the shop during the previous thirty days, whereas factory outlets have a reference price that is based on the previous year.



{{Bernard GONTIER}} (First Vice-President of the Saumur Chamber of Commerce and industry – CCI)
_ At the outset, the only added value provided by luxury brand outlets was the 30% discount, but now a 30% discount is no longer enough, as Freeport is developing leisure facilities to retain customers. What will become of brand outlets that do not have the space to develop attractions?



{{Valérie VOISEMBERT}}
_ The success of brand centres is due to the range of brands, the quality of the goods and the amount of discount. Attractions are a complement.



{{Jean-Paul LEROY}} (Fashion Daily News Editor-in-Chief)
_ How do you ensure customer loyalty in brand outlets?



{{Valérie VOISEMBERT}}
_ We try to step up patronage (events, Internet). Brand centres sometimes have other uses, like in Sweden, where the centre plays the role of a local shopping centre. The average number of times a person visits our centres is six per year.



{{From the floor}}
_ Is the brand centre offering similar to that in hypermarkets?



{{Laurent LOCURCIO}}
_ No, because brand centres offer all the luxury brands in a single location. However, this « luxury offering » will not necessarily be enough to enable them to endure.



{{From the floor}}
_ French legislation prohibits dual labelling outside the sales period. How will Freeport display its prices when it opens sites in France?



{{Valérie VOISEMBERT}}
_ We will comply with the law, even though some brand centres in France do practice dual labelling.



{{Pascal ROUSSARIE}}
_ There is room for all distribution methods. Dynamic sectors are those that have a dynamic method of distribution. For example, the household sports budget is constantly increasing, thanks to brands such as Nike and Adidas and distribution methods used by Décathlon and Citadium in Paris.


Les réformes annoncées de l’urbanisme commercial

{{{La mort annoncée de l’urbanisme commercial}}}

{Par Laetitia Marchand et Michel Meyer
_ Association d’avocats BMS’- Paris [->www.bms-avocats.com]
_ Décembre 2007}
_

– {{1- La Commission Européenne comme élément déclencheur}}
_
_ Dans un contexte européen de liberté d’établissement toujours plus affirmée, le droit français de l’urbanisme commercial est profondément remis en cause. Suite à la mise en demeure et l’avis motivé adressés par la Commission européenne1, une réforme de la législation française s’avère indispensable.
_ La Commission remet en cause plusieurs aspects de la procédure d’autorisation d’exploitation commerciale qui, en autorisant des projets en vertu de critères économiques et concurrentiels, méconnaîtrait le principe de liberté d’établissement et de prestation de services et serait, en outre, devenus incompatibles avec la législation communautaire2. Enfin, la critique relève également le caractère partial de la composition des organes délivrant les autorisations d’exploitation3 dans la mesure où participent, dans la prise de décision, des représentants des opérateurs économiques existant.
_
_ La deuxième étape de la procédure en manquement prévue par l’article 226 TCE a donc été franchie. La France disposait alors d’un délai de deux mois pour répondre, au risque que la Commission dépose un recours à son encontre. C’est ce qu’elle a fait par une lettre en date du 20 février 2007, dans laquelle l’engagement de se mettre en conformité avec les recommandations européennes a été pris.
_
– {{2- Le rapport DUTREIL : premier ébranlement de l’édifice français}}
_
_ C’est dans ce contexte que le Gouvernement, contraint à une réforme d’ampleur de la législation, a, dans un premier temps, chargé la Commission de modernisation de l’équipement commercial, présidée par Renaud DUTREIL, de formuler des propositions de modification des textes actuellement applicables4, dont l’esprit initial était de rééquilibrer les différentes formes de commerce et d’éviter que les petites entreprises ne soient pénalisées par rapport aux grandes surfaces.
_
_ Le rapport rendu par la Commission5 présente, en substance, des propositions visant à maintenir la législation spécifique à l’équipement commercial mais sur la base de critères rénovés, à insérer la législation de l’urbanisme commercial dans celle de l’urbanisme général, de donner plus de contenu aux schémas de développement commercial, et de leur donner davantage de force juridique.
_
– {{3- Le Conseil de la concurrence refuse les circonstances atténuantes}}
_
_ Ces propositions ont fait l’objet d’un avis du Conseil de la concurrence6, saisi à cet effet par le Gouvernement, qui conclut, dans un premier temps, à l’échec partiel de la législation actuelle qui aurait permis le renforcement des distorsions de concurrence en favorisant les acteurs en place et considère que les réflexions de la Commission de modernisation de l’équipement commercial ne font qu’aménager un régime qu’il juge devoir être réformé beaucoup plus profondément compte tenu d’un « bilan concurrentiel négatif ».
_
_ Le Conseil se prévaut des exemples européens et préconise d’une part d’abandonner le système actuel qui soumet à une autorisation de nature économique les projets d’ouverture ou d’extension des surfaces commerciales et, d’autre part, d’apprécier la conformité des projets au regard d’objectifs urbanistiques et d’aménagement du territoire, pouvant être traités lors de l’instruction du permis de construire. La suppression d’une telle autorisation permettrait à elle seule d’animer à nouveau la concurrence et de simplifier les procédures administratives, jugées trop lourdes.
_
_ Ainsi, plutôt que deux décisions, l’autorisation d’exploitation commerciale et le permis de construire, qui, chacune peut faire l’objet d’un recours selon des procédures et des délais différents, il ne subsisterait qu’une seule autorisation.
_
_ A cet effet, le Conseil propose de consacrer une section dans les schéma de cohérence territorial (SCOT) dédiée aux équipements commerciaux7, dont les prescriptions s’imposeront lors de l’examen du permis de construire, sans que soit rendue nécessaire l’instauration d’une procédure d’autorisation spécifique pour les surfaces commerciales lors de l’instruction du permis.
_
_ En outre, le Conseil avance des propositions pour lutter contre les situations anticoncurrentielles. A cet égard, en vue d’éviter la constitution de positions dominantes locales, il propose d’abaisser les seuils de contrôle de concentration. Il préconise également une extension de son pouvoir de remise en cause des positions dominantes acquises par des injonctions de cession d’activités.
_
– {{4- Le pré rapport ATTALI : l’abolition vécue comme une libéralisation}}
_
_ Hasard du calendrier, au même moment où le conseil de la concurrence rendait son avis, le 15 octobre 2007, était publié le pré rapport de la Commission pour la Libération de la Croissance Française, présidée par Jacques ATTALI.
_
_ Axé sur le pouvoir d’achat, le rapport consacre une partie de ses propositions à un objectif qui s’inscrit dans le droit fil des propositions du Conseil de la Concurrence, en préconisant l’abrogation des lois Royer et Raffarin par la mise en place de dispositifs de contrôle locaux afin de lutter contre les situations de monopole.
_
_ La réforme présentée est très dense dès lors qu’elle implique une nouvelle modification du Code de l’urbanisme et de la procédure de permis de construire. Au surplus, il s’agit d’un bouleversement radical de l’état d’esprit et des comportements de tous les acteurs. Ceux qui faisaient de l’urbanisme vont devoir faire de la police de la concurrence.
_
– {{5- Conclusion provisoire}}
_
_ Le rapport définitif est prévu pour la mi-janvier 2008 mais on ignore encore le calendrier législatif qui devrait entériner ou non ces propositions. Il est probable que dans le climat actuel, cela aille assez vite.
_
_ En l’état actuel des choses, il serait bien possible qu’une nouvelle ère s’ouvre avec l’urbanisme omniprésent. Il irriguerait et fédèrerait de nombreuses politiques publiques, comme le logement, l’aménagement du territoire, les déplacements urbains…

LA CONFIRMATION DE LA MORT ANNONCEE DE L’URBANISME COMMERCIAL PAR LE RAPPORT ATTALI (COMPLEMENT DE JANVIER 2008)
Le rapport tant attendu de la Commission présidée par Jacques ATTALI pour la libération de la croissance française vient d’être rendu public ce jeudi 24 janvier.
_
_ Compilant près de 300 décisions impliquant tous les acteurs de la société, le document confirme très largement les orientations du pré- rapport établi en décembre 2007.
_
_ La Commission prescrit sans surprise d’abroger les lois Royer- Raffarin, lois dont l’impact négatif est reconnu tant au niveau du renforcement des concentrations de la plupart des activités de distribution qu’en termes de création d’obstacles sur le marché du commerce de détail .
_
_ Ainsi le groupe de travail, conformément à l’avis du Conseil de la concurrence , recommande encore d’assouplir les règles d’implantation commerciale (également applicables à l’hôtellerie et à la distribution cinématographique), en supprimant notamment les procédures d’autorisation actuelles gérées par les commissions départementales d’équipement commercial (CDEC) et en leur substituant une autorisation unique, accordée au moment de la délivrance du permis de construire par le Maire ou le Président de l’établissement public intercommunal compétent, et ce quelque soit la taille du projet.
_
_ Cette simplification procédurale recèlerait trois vertus : une « diminution consolidée » des prix à la consommation, la création de plusieurs centaines de milliers d’emplois ainsi qu’une hausse du PIB.
_
_ A ce stade, on peut cependant regretter que le rapport demeure si laconique sur les nécessaires modalités d’application de ces principes.
_
_ En effet, alors que la réglementation des autorisations de construire vient tout juste d’être réformée (en octobre 2007), la mise en œuvre desdites propositions –qui suggère une nouvelle refonte du droit de l’urbanisme – risque de créer à nouveau une certaine confusion chez les élus locaux et les services instructeurs, qu’il conviendra de clarifier le plus promptement possible si, bien sûr, les propositions sont retenues.

—–
_ {1. Mise en demeure adressée par la Commission européenne aux autorités françaises le 5 juillet 2005 suivie, le 12 décembre 2006 par un avis motivé dans lequel il est demandé à la France de modifier sa réglementation concernant l’implantation des surfaces commerciales, seconde étape de la procédure précontentieuse de sanction.}
_
_ {2. En particulier les articles 14-5 et 14-6 de la directive 2006/123/CE relative aux services dans le marché intérieur.}
_
_ {3. Commissions Départementales d’Equipement Commercial (CDEC).}
_
_ {4. L’urbanisme commercial est actuellement régi par une législation spécifique résultant de la célèbre loi Royer, loi n°73-1193 du 27 décembre 1973 d’orientation du commerce et de l’artisanat, elle-même profondément modifiée en 1996 par la loi Raffarin, n°96-603 du 5 juillet 1996, relative au développement et à la promotion du commerce et de l’artisanat.}
_
_ {5. Rapport « DUTREIL » février 2007.}
_
_ {6. Conseil de la Concurrence, 11 oct. 2007, avis n° 07-A-12 concernant la législation relative à l’équipement commercial.}
_
_ {7. sur le modèle des actuels schémas de développement commercial}

—-
{{{Réagissez à cet article :}}}
_
{* champs obligatoires}
_
—-

Les centres de marques français : un pré-bilan positif pour le 1er semestre 2009 et de bonnes perspectives envisagées pour le second

L’Observatoire Magdus a mené mi-mai une enquête auprès des directions de centres de magasins d’usine
et de marques en France afin de recueillir leur pré-bilan du premier semestre 2009 ainsi que leurs
perspectives d’activité au second semestre. Malgré un contexte conjoncturel défavorable, il semble
que la majorité des centres de magasins d’usine et de marques résiste bien à la crise et envisage le
second semestre positivement.

{{Lire l’intégralité de l’étude:}}

Programme 19 et 20 septembre/ Program 19 & 20th september

{{{Evolution de la distribution des marques en Europe:
_ nouveaux enjeux, nouvelles stratégies?}}}
{{{Developments in brand distribution in Europe:
_ New stakes, new strategies?
_ FOR ENGLIH VERSION, [CLICK HERE ->http://www.magdus.fr/Developments-in-brand-distribution]
}}}

|{{Avis d’experts}}|{{Intervenants}}|
|{{mercredi 19 septembre 10h00/10h30
_ {{{Etat des lieux européen
_ sur l’évolution de la distribution
_ des marques en Europe:
_ situation et perspectives}}}
_ |{{Alessandro Bedeschi
_

_ Henrik C.Maris
_

_ Eric Daguin
_

_ Emmanuel de Labarre
_
_
_ Sven Lung
_
_
_ Pascal Roussarie
_
_
_ Olivier Dauvers
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|

—–

|{{Conférences}}|{{Intervenants}}|
|{{mercredi 19 septembre 17h15/18h15}}
_ {{{Nouvelle conquête
_ pour nouveaux consommateurs}}}
_ Stratégie de conquête
_ Nouveau marketing
_ Valeur du client
_ Marques et Différenciation
_ |{{Philippe Villemus
_
_
_ {{|
|{{jeudi 20 septembre 10h15/11h15}}
_ {{{Le nouveau consommateur
_ du XXI e siècle:
_ portrait d’un individu contradictoire}}}
_ |{{Guillaume Erner
_
_
_ {{|

—–

|{{Ateliers thématiques}}|{{Intervenants}}|
|{{A1 – mercredi 19 septembre 10h45/11h45 }}
_ {{{Evolution du consommateur en Europe:
_ comment s’adapter et anticiper?}}}
_ Y-a-t-il un ou des consommateurs?
_ Quelles sont les grandes tendances des
_ comportements d’achat de produits d’habillement?
_ Comment vont-elles évoluer?
_ Comment les distributeurs de marques
_ peuvent-ils attirer plus de consommateurs?
_ Comment les fidéliser? Les mêmes méthodes
_ peuvent-elles s’appliquer à tous et partout?
_ les centres de marques occupent-ils une place à part ?
_ |{{
_
_ Valérie Voisembert
_

_ Pascal Roussarie
_
_
_ Laurent Locurcio
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|
|{{A2 – mercredi 19 septembre 10h45/11h45}}
_ {{{Invendus textiles: peut-on les maîtriser?
_ Comment les valoriser?}}}
_ Quels sont les enjeux des invendus textiles?
_ Quelle est leur place sur le marché de l’habillement?
_ Peut-on limiter les invendus en amont ?
_ Quelles sont les meilleures solutions pour la
_ valorisation des invendus (centres de magasins
_ d’usine, internet, enseigne-bis…)?
_ Les marques doivent-elles gérer leurs
_ invendus comme leurs produits de collection?
_ Quelles solutions pour les invendus d’invendus?
_ |{{Alessandro Bedeschi
_

_ Jean-Loup Besquent
_
_
_ Dr.Sami Sboui
_
_
_ Bruno Rogowski
_
_
_ {{
{Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque}}}|
|{{A3 – mercredi 19 septembre 12h00/13h00}}
_ {{{Marketing des centres de magasins d’usine:
_ quel est le mix-gagnant?}}}
_ Quel est le pouvoir d’attractivité d’une marque
_ pour le consommateur de centres de magasins
_ d’usine? Existe-t-il un portefeuille de marques idéal?
_ Comment prendre en compte la dimension
_ shopping-tourisme dans le mix-marketing?
_ La communication est-elle la clé
_ de la différenciation avec les concurrents?
_ Quel est aujourd’hui le positionnement
_ marketing des centres de magasins d’usine?
_ Peut-il être à « géo-stratégie » variable ?
_ Comment doit-il évoluer? Pour quelles
_ perspectives de développement?
_ |{{Richard Broadhead
_
_
_ Frank Verschelle
_
_
_ Alain Salzman
_
_
_ Fabrice Schlosser
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|
|{{A4 – mercredi 19 septembre 12h00/13h00}}
_ {{{Ouverture du dimanche: un enjeu européen ?}}}
_ Quels sont les besoins et attentes
_ des différents acteurs?
_ Quels sont les enjeux économiques de
_ l’ouverture du dimanche?
_ Quels en sont les enjeux sociaux?
_ Sont-ils partagés de la même façon en Europe?
_ |{{Emmanuel de Labarre
_
_
_ Marion Kahn-Guerra
_
_
_ Olivier Dauvers
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|
|{{A5 – mercredi 19 septembre 14h15/15h15}}
_ {{{Stratégie de distribution des marques:
_ quelle est la place d’internet?}}}
_ Internet a-t-il changé la façon de consommer
_ les marques? Les grands sites marchands
_ qui déstockent des marques concurrencent-ils
_ les centres de magasins d’usine?
_ Peuvent-ils prendre une place encore plus grande
_ sur ce marché?
_ Pour les marques, internet est-il un outil commercial
_ complémentaire ou est-il devenu un mode
_ de distribution à part entière?
_ Déstocker sa marque sur internet permet-il d’attirer
_ une nouvelle clientèle?
_ |{{Olivier Le Floch
_

_ Sven Lung
_
_
_ Patrick Robin
_
_
_ Olivier Costil
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|
|{{A6 – mercredi 19 septembre 14h15/15h15}}
_ {{{Le client de centre de magasin d’usine:
_ consommateur de marques
_ ou consommateur de prix?}}}
_ Qui sont les consommateurs de centres
_ de magasins d’usine? Que viennent-ils y chercher?
_ Existe-il encore pour le consommateur
_ un prix de «référence»?
_ Pour les centres de magasins d’usine, les prix et
_ les marques sont-ils toujours des arguments
_ suffisants pour se démarquer?
_ Quelles sont les véritables attentes des
_ consommateurs? Quel serait alors le centre
_ de magasins d’usine idéal?
_ |{{Christine Baudchon
_

_ Geoffrey Nidd
_
_
_ Marina Martorana
_
_
_ Jean-Paul Leroy
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|
|{{A7 – mercredi 19 septembre 15h45/16h45}}
_ {{{Immobilier commercial en Europe:
_ la distribution des marques textile est-elle
_ toujours un secteur gagnant?}}}
_ Dans l’univers de la distribution des marques
_ de l’habillement, quelles sont les tendances
_ de l’immobilier commercial en Europe?
_ Pourquoi de plus en plus d’investisseurs
_ s’intéressent-ils au concept des centres
_ de magasins d’usine? Sur quels critères choisissent-ils
_ d’investir? Y a t il encore des perspectives
_ de développement en Europe de l’ouest?
_ Les pays de l’est sont-ils un nouvel Eldorado?
_ A quelles conditions peut-on encore
_ s’y implanter et s’y développer?
_ |{{Chris Pope
_
_

_
_ Richard Broadhead
_
_

_
_ Gaël Thomas
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|
|{{A8 – mercredi 19 septembre 15h45/16h45}}
_ {{{Centres de magasins d’usine:
_ une opportunité de développement
_ pour les marques ?}}}
_ Pour les marques, en quoi une stratégie de
_ distribution multi canal peut-elle être génératrice
_ de développement? Comment la gérer?
_ Comment tirer profit des centres de magasins
_ d’usine? Pourquoi le développement
_ européen de ces centres sert-il le développement
_ des marques
_ |{{Juan-Marcos Gabas
_
_
_ Alain Salzman
_
_
_ Ulrich Nordhorn
_
_
_ Olivier Dauvers
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|

—–

|{{Table ronde}}|{{Intervenants}}|
|{{jeudi 20 septembre 11h45/12h30}}
_ {{{En quoi, et comment, dans 5 ans,
_ les centres de marques
_ répondront-ils aux attentes des marques,
_ des consommateurs et des investisseurs ?}}}
_ |{{Henrik C.Maris
_

_ Eric Decouvelaere
_
_
_ François Moss
_
_
_ Iestyn Roberts
_

_ Alexandre Séjourné
_

_
_ Olivier Dauvers
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|

—–

|{{Tribunes Libres}}|{{Intervenants}}|
|{{jeudi 20 septembre 9h35/10h15}}
_ |{{Alain Salzman, Marques Avenue
_
_
_ Eric Decouvelaere, McArthurGlen
_
_
_ Iestyn Roberts, Freeport
_

_
_ Franck Verschelle, Pantheon
_
_
|

—–

|{{Ateliers pays}}|{{Intervenants}}|
|{{A9 – mercredi 19 septembre 10h45/11h45}}
_ {{{Belgique-Hollande }}}
_
_
_
_ |{{atelier annulé
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|
|{{A10 – mercredi 19 septembre 14h15/15h15}}
_ {{{Les Centres de Marques en Europe
_ faits et chiffres}}}
_
_

_ |{{Caroline Lamy
_
_
_ Bruno Rogowski
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|
|{{A11 – mercredi 19 septembre 12h00/13h00}}
_ {{{Allemagne}}}
_
_

_ |{{Ulrich Nordhorn
_
_
_ Jörg Nowicki
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|
|{{A12 – mercredi 19 septembre 12h00/13h00}}
_ {{{Angleterre-Irlande}}}
_
_

_ |{{François Moss
_
_
_ Graham Parker
_

_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|
|{{A13 – mercredi 19 septembre 14h15/15h15}}
_ {{{Pays de l’Est}}}
_
_

_

_ |{{Eric Daguin
_
_
_ Jana Kurkova
_
_
_ Tomasz Leskiewicz
_

_
_ Fabrice Schlosser
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|
|{{A14 – mercredi 19 septembre 15h45/16h45}}
_ {{{Espagne-Portugal}}}
_
_

_ |{{Manuel Saavedra
_

_
_ Philippe Schilde
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|
|{{A15 – mercredi 19 septembre 10h45/11h45}}
_ {{{Italie}}}
_
_
_
_ |{{
_
_ Roberto Pacifico
_
_
_ Marina Martorana
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|
|{{A16 – mercredi 19 septembre 15h45/16h45}}
_ {{{France}}}
_
_

_ |{{Raymond Feyssaguet
_
_
_ Didier Moret
_
_
_ Alexandre Séjourné
_
_
_ Laurent Locurcio
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|

—–

_ Ce programme est actualisé très régulièrement.
_ {This program will be updated very regularly. }

—–

_ Vous avez des remarques ou suggestions? Contactez nous
_ { You have remarks or suggestions? Contact us}
_ [->accueil@magdus.com]
_ Tel : 33 (0)3.25.43.70.20

—–

_ Plus d’infos sur 3ème colloque européen sur les centres de marques et magasins d’usine:
_ {More information on the 3rd European conference on factory outlet centres:}

-* [Présentation / {Presentation}->http://www.magdus.fr/Edito]

-* [Nos partenaires / {Partners}->http://www.magdus.fr/Vous-souhaitez-devenir-partenaire]

-* [Nos partenaires presse / {Partners in the press}->http://www.magdus.fr/Partenariats-presse]

-* [Les Trophées Magdus / {Magdus Awards}->http://www.magdus.fr/Les-trophees-2007]

-* [S’inscrire / {Registration }->http://www.magdus.fr/Droits-d-inscriptions]

-* [Hébergement / {Hotel accommodation }->http://www.magdus.fr/Hebergement]

-* [Informations générales / {General information}->http://www.magdus.fr/Informations-generales-General]

—–

Contact : [->accueil@magdus.com]

—–

Workshop 2 – Unsold textiles – can they be controlled? How can they be made more saleable?

{{Facilitator}}
{{Bruno Rogowski }}
{Magdus}


{{Speakers}}
{{Dr. Sami Sboui}}
Researcher (Paris XII)
Research Director
{EuroMedTextile}
{{Alessandro Bedeschi}}
General Secretary
{European Association of Fashion Retailers}
{{Jean-Loup Besquent}}
Director of Outlet Europe subsidiary
{Vecopri}



{{Docteur Sami SBOUI}}
_ A distinction is made between excess stock – during the selling season – and unsold stock that remains at the end of the season. According to our studies, unsold stock varies between 33 and 50 %, and the average figure is generally high for top-of-the-range products. The retail brands have difficulty in managing this unsold stock and they endeavour to optimise the de-stocking process. It is less a problem of quantity than of uniformity of stock, because during the sales period, a varied range of products has to be offered.



{{Jean-Loup BESQUENT}}
_ We do not own the brands, and so we pay royalties on unsold goods. In a certain way, these unsold goods are a « necessary evil », a result of production quotas – it costs the brand just as much to produce 1500 tee-shirts in Asia as 2000. This is why the amount of unsold stock is tending to increase.



{{Alessandro BEDESCHI}}
_ Unsold goods is a major problem for the fashion retail sector and varies from country to country. Distinction should be made on how specialised retail chains and independent retailers deal with the issue of sold goods. Key factors for success chains are their perfect integration in their supply chain and their good logistics system. They also can move their stocks through distribution systems and know their consumer profile. For independent multi brand retailers, the only solution to limit stocks is to cooperate with their suppliers by enhancing the communication and sharing information on the sell out of the collections; from ordering to the final sell out. In some countries (Scandinavian countries, the Netherlands), there are good practices of cooperation between retailers and suppliers whilst in some other countries there is still a long way to go.
It is a matter of mentality, product, individual companies, and size of the companies.
Consumers tend to buy more during the sales promotions which is one of the reasons retailers have stocks.



{{Jean-Loup BESQUENT}}
_ It is important for brands to ensure upstream control of their goods sales channels in order to maintain their image. 95 % of our goods are sold in factory outlets, which is an ideal channel to provide control and profitability. The rest is sold on Internet and via discount stores. We do not take back unsold stock from retailers after the sales, apart from in exceptional cases.



{{Docteur Sami SBOUI}}
_ Of all our de-stock possibilities (factory outlets, excess stock outlets, export and de-selection), export is the preferred method, because it obviates the need for cut-price selling.



{{Bruno ROGOWSKI}}
_ That being said, there are two limits for export – if the brand does not have a strong image in the country in question, it will never be able to sell the products; and if, however, the brand has a strong image, it must defend this it in that country.



{{Docteur Sami SBOUI}}
_ Lesser known brands end up in the used clothing stores in Africa. Well-known brands, such as Zara are also very well known abroad.



{{Alessandro BEDESCHI}}
_ I don’t know Zara well enough to speak about the company. Each brand has its specific market strategy, which needs to penetrate the market whilst keeping a strong brand image. How they penetrate markets depends on several factors: on the distribution strategy, on the expansion plans, on consumer behaviour, and on how strong or well known the brand is. Stock is sold during sales promotions, unsold stock is sent to wholesalers or is destroyed.



{{Bruno ROGOWSKI}}
_ How do other sectors of industry manage unsold stock?



{{Docteur Sami SBOUI}}
_ Unsold stock is a fact of life in all economic sectors (Bordeaux wine, newspapers, etc.). Walt Disney, for example, destroys lots of CD-ROMs. Airbus, on the other hand, has no problem of unsold stock, but has to cope with electronic component obsolescence. It is important to bet on the « right unsold stock ».



{{Bruno ROGOWSKI}}
_ How is the price of unsold stock set?



{{Jean-Loup BESQUENT}}
_ Consumers are in the know and understand the factory outlet mechanism and the prices of unsold stock.



{{Docteur Sami SBOUI}}
_ We want to set up a dynamic price system for transport.



{{Alessandro BEDESCHI}}
_ Consumers are more and more complicated and have an incredible choice so they can look at quality price ratio. From a brand perspective, price is a marketing tool. Concerning the recycling of textiles and greater awareness of the environment, there is more attention given to greener products and, hopefully, in the near future, consumers will be more keen on paying for these products. A good price, from a company perspective, is when the consumer pays.



{{ {Discussions with the floor} }}

{{Pierre DESRUES}} (CCI – Chamber of Commerce, Essonne)
_ Retailers’ difficulty in selling their excess stock is increasing with the development of specific excess stock distribution channels; it even raises the issue of their survival.



{{Alessandro BEDESCHI}}
_ For small independent retailers, overstock is a matter of survival; therefore the cooperation between small retailers and suppliers is important. Small retailers’ main partners are the European industries, if the suppliers could agree to take back the unsold goods, retailers could lower their margins. Thus retailers would survive, be more competitive and suppliers would still have clients.



{{Alain SALZMAN}} (Président de Marques Avenue)
_ Manufacturers should allow retailers to take advantage of the brand centres to sell their excess stock. This would enable retailers to take more risk, which would, in the long run, be to the advantage of the manufacturer.



{{Pierre DESRUES}} (CCI Essonne)
_ This is incompatible with the manufacturers’ approach – they have over-stocking problems and their attitude is that attack is the best form of defence.



{{Jean-Loup BESQUENT}}
_ It is not profitable to allow retailers to get rid of their stock in a factory outlet, because costs are too high for small stocks.



{{Docteur Sami SBOUI}}
_ Retailers have an interest in working with discounters, because, with the massive increase in collections, they have to release space and disburse money. De-stock management is just as important as procurement management.



{{Alessandro BEDESCHI}}
_ To be clear about the relation between factory outlets and retailers, it is understandable if a producer takes back the unsold goods of a retailer and sells those in a real factory outlet centre. The question is what is a real factory outlet centre and what have they become. Many producers create ad hoc productions for factory outlet centres, which is a distinct situation.



{{Yves MARY}} (Owner of a factory outlet centre at Cholet)
_ Do factory outlets satisfy the customer?



{{Docteur Sami SBOUI}}
_ A new consumer is emerging today, the « special offer-aholic », that is someone who is looking for a good deal. 70% of women only buy during the sales periods. Distributors should take into account this behaviour in their strategy. The discount race must not be developed to such an extent as to engender « cannibalism ».



{{Michel de SOUZA}} (President of a towns association near to Geneva)
_ We must find a modus vivendi that enables retailers as well as the major brands and distributors to be successful, without putting them into opposition.


Analyse architecturale des centres de marques en Europe


_ L’architecture des centres de marques en Europe fait l’objet d’interrogations, voire de controverses. Le style « village » en vogue ces dernières années subit de vives critiques. Ce parti pris architectural a pris une place majeure dans le secteur et les acteurs sont nombreux à se demander si celui-ci domine actuellement le marché. Si l’architecture des centres de marques constitue un élément essentiel de leur politique d’image, elle paraît marginale, voire absente des études consacrées aux centres de marques en Europe. Pourtant les tendances architecturales reflètent l’évolution du concept. L’architecture figure parmi les facteurs clés permettant de distinguer les quatre générations de centres de marques qui se sont succédé en Europe depuis le milieu des années 1980. Cette étude, intégralement dédiée à l’architecture des centres de marques en Europe, met en lumière la place qu’occupent les différents styles architecturaux au sein du secteur des centres de marques.
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A positive pre-balance sheet for the 1st half-year 2009 and good perspectives foreseen for the second one

The Magdus’ Observatory led in the middle of may a survey with the managers of Factory Outlet Centres in France to collect their pre-balance sheet for the first half-year 2009 as well as their perspectives of activity to the second one. In spite of an unfavourable cyclical context, it seems that the majority of the centres resists well to the crisis and foresees the second half-year positively.

{{Read the full study:}}